The Albion hotel fronts on to Albion Street and has gardens at the rear extending down to the promenade with direct access to sandy beaches. Charles Dickens said it had: "The most beautiful view of the sea from its bay windows you can imagine". And he should know because a plaque on the front of the hotel points out that he stayed here - or in one of the old houses that now comprise it - for some time during the summers of 1839, 1840, 1845, 1849 and 1859.
The Albion in Dickens’s day was a slim, four storey building known as Ballard’s. Today’s somewhat sprawling establishment is the result of incorporating a number of neighbouring houses. One of these - number 40 (now number 12) - is where he actually stayed in 1839. On this occasion he was joined by his friend and biographer John Foster and they enjoyed a memorable "merry night". Dickens had the highest regard for the hotel landlord; the feeling was mutual, for he wrote: "Mr Ballard of the Albion Hotel… one of the best and most respectable tradesmen in England. He has a kind of reverence for me."
During this first stay Dickens wrote the latter part of Nicholas Nickleby. On September 18th he exulted (in reference to the plot of the novel): "The discovery is made, Ralph [Nickleby] is dead, the loves have come alright, Tim Linkinwater has proposed, and I have now only to break up Dotheboys and the book together". At two o’clock on the afternoon of the 20th, he wrote: "…their eyes filled with tears and they spoke low and softly of their poor dead cousin" – and the book was finished. No wonder Dickens wrote of number 40: "We enjoy this place amazingly"
Here in Broadstairs, Dickens wrote parts of eight of his major novels and much more besides. His letters show he was nostalgic for the little town even when he holidayed abroad. There are two museums to the author: Dickens House, with a faithful reproduction of Betsey Trotwood’s parlour, as described in detail in ‘David Copperfield’, and Bleak House; Dickens favourite holiday retreat from the mid 1840’s, with many rooms preserved as he knew them. For one week in the middle of June, the clock is turned back and favourite characters from the stories are to be seen in silk hats, cravats and crinolines gracing the streets during the annual Dickens festival.
Broadstairs on the far north east tip of Kent adjoining Margate, was Charles Dickens’s favourite holiday resort. He stayed here with his family for a minimum of one month every summer from 1839 - when he was becoming established as a successful writer - through until 1851. On the two years he went abroad he was still nostalgic for Broadstairs. Of Italy, in 1844 he said it had: "never so fine a sunset" and in Switzerland in 1846 he missed Broadstairs’s: "good old, tarry, salt, little pier. "
The author stayed in various lodgings over these years and, even today, it doesn’t take much imagination to see Broadstairs as it was then: a little fishing village, with a couple of twisting streets feeding into the main street and zigzagging along the top of the white chalk cliff. And, down Harbour Street, as it bends round to the left still stands the Tartar Frigate, which Dickens described as: "the coziest little sailor’s inn that is to be met around the coast… the very walls have long ago learned ‘Tom Bowling’ and ‘The Bay of Biscay’ by heart and would be thankful for a fresh song".
Not only were the sailors idle in learning new songs, the hyper-active Dickens was also critical of them in other ways. In Our English Watering Place from ‘Reprinted Pieces’ he wrote: "Looking at them, you would say that surely these must be the laziest boatmen in the world. They lounge about in obstinate and inflexible pantaloons that are apparently made of wood, the whole season through. Whether talking about shipping in the channel, or gruffly unbending over mugs of beer at the public-house, you would consider them the slowest men. The chances are you might stay here for ten seasons, and never see a boatman in a hurry".
This historic 18th century flint-built pub/restaurant occupies an idyllic position over looking the harbour. It has been the haunt of smugglers, customs men and seafarers and has enjoyed continuous trading for more than 300 years. The Harbour Restaurant, specializing in seafood dishes, has stunning panoramic views over Viking Bay and there is a choice of light snacks in the bar which always has a welcoming log fire in the winter months. During folk week The Tartar Frigate is a focal point of the festivities with live bands day and night and during the summer you can even take your beer on to the beach.
The author stayed in various lodgings over these years and, even today, it doesn’t take much imagination to see Broadstairs as it was then: a little fishing village, with a couple of twisting streets feeding into the main street and zigzagging along the top of the white chalk cliff. And, down Harbour Street, as it bends round to the left still stands the Tartar Frigate, which Dickens described as: "the coziest little sailor’s inn that is to be met around the coast… the very walls have long ago learned ‘Tom Bowling’ and ‘The Bay of Biscay’ by heart and would be thankful for a fresh song".
Not only were the sailors idle in learning new songs, the hyper-active Dickens was also critical of them in other ways. In Our English Watering Place from ‘Reprinted Pieces’ he wrote: "Looking at them, you would say that surely these must be the laziest boatmen in the world. They lounge about in obstinate and inflexible pantaloons that are apparently made of wood, the whole season through. Whether talking about shipping in the channel, or gruffly unbending over mugs of beer at the public-house, you would consider them the slowest men. The chances are you might stay here for ten seasons, and never see a boatman in a hurry".
This historic 18th century flint-built pub/restaurant occupies an idyllic position over looking the harbour. It has been the haunt of smugglers, customs men and seafarers and has enjoyed continuous trading for more than 300 years. The Harbour Restaurant, specializing in seafood dishes, has stunning panoramic views over Viking Bay and there is a choice of light snacks in the bar which always has a welcoming log fire in the winter months. During folk week The Tartar Frigate is a focal point of the festivities with live bands day and night and during the summer you can even take your beer on to the beach.
From his boyhood in Chatham through his later years at Gads Hill, Charles Dickens loved to walk up to Cobham. His enthusiasm for its green woods, shady lanes and
village inn is most apparent in his earliest novel Pickwick Papers. The inn is first referenced in Tracy Tupman's pathetic letter to
Mr. Pickwick; the former having lost his sweetheart to the irresponsible strolling actor, Alfred Jingle. Tupman's premature suicide note includes the lines: "Any letter addressed to me at the Leather
Bottle, Cobham, Kent, will be forwarded supposing I still exist"
No sooner had Mr. Pickwick received the plaintive message than he set off for Cobham with his two companions, Winkle and Snodgrass. When they arrived at the inn, described by Dickens as; "a clean and commodious alehouse", they were shown into: "a long, low-roofed room, furnished with a large number of high backed, leather cushioned chairs, of fantastic shapes and embellished with a great variety of old portraits and roughly coloured prints of some antiquity". At the upper end of the room they found Mr. Tupman tucking into a roast fowl, bacon, ale and et ceteras, and "looking as unlike a man who had taken leave of the world as possible".
Mr. Pickwick refreshed himself with: "A copious draft of ale" whilst insisting that the lovelorn fellow finish his delicate repast. Then the two of them crossed the road to the churchyard where, pacing to and fro together, Mr. Pickwick managed to persuade his companion to give up his resolution and join his friends.
Built in 1629, this attractive half-timbered inn got its name when a leather bottle containing gold sovereigns was found here in 1720. Every inch of wall space in the low-roofed bars and restaurant is covered with Dickensian memorabilia - including a glass case which contains the large leather money satchel carried on the reading tours by Dickens's agent to collect the payments in silver.
Today the three tastefully decorated bedrooms (two with four-poster beds) are all en suite and named after Dickensian characters. Dickens was a regular visitor to the inn and depicted Mr. Pickwick spending the night, reading into the eerie hours, in the upstairs front bedroom which overlooks the churchyard. In addition to the main menu, there are daily specials and a fresh fish board, plus a good range of wines and a selection of real ales.
No sooner had Mr. Pickwick received the plaintive message than he set off for Cobham with his two companions, Winkle and Snodgrass. When they arrived at the inn, described by Dickens as; "a clean and commodious alehouse", they were shown into: "a long, low-roofed room, furnished with a large number of high backed, leather cushioned chairs, of fantastic shapes and embellished with a great variety of old portraits and roughly coloured prints of some antiquity". At the upper end of the room they found Mr. Tupman tucking into a roast fowl, bacon, ale and et ceteras, and "looking as unlike a man who had taken leave of the world as possible".
Mr. Pickwick refreshed himself with: "A copious draft of ale" whilst insisting that the lovelorn fellow finish his delicate repast. Then the two of them crossed the road to the churchyard where, pacing to and fro together, Mr. Pickwick managed to persuade his companion to give up his resolution and join his friends.
Built in 1629, this attractive half-timbered inn got its name when a leather bottle containing gold sovereigns was found here in 1720. Every inch of wall space in the low-roofed bars and restaurant is covered with Dickensian memorabilia - including a glass case which contains the large leather money satchel carried on the reading tours by Dickens's agent to collect the payments in silver.
Today the three tastefully decorated bedrooms (two with four-poster beds) are all en suite and named after Dickensian characters. Dickens was a regular visitor to the inn and depicted Mr. Pickwick spending the night, reading into the eerie hours, in the upstairs front bedroom which overlooks the churchyard. In addition to the main menu, there are daily specials and a fresh fish board, plus a good range of wines and a selection of real ales.
Copyright T.W. Townsend - the opinions expressed herein are those of the author and any observations were correct at the time of the
review.